So far away

Hi everyone. There is something about being on the southern tip of the world that makes a person feel very far from home. We saw a map in the Calafate airport, showing us 11,899 km from Seattle, and I ached for home. It was like we had been climbing a ladder for five months, and I didn't look down until that very moment.

A couple days later we learned that a family member had passed away, and we just wanted to be home to support and grieve with his wife and kids. We are just so far away.

But we left home last June with a dream, and we are still chasing it. We are in our final week in Patagonia, and it has been a dream come true for me. We left Calafate for the mountain town of El Chaltén. The town is idyllic. It attracts people eager to trek deep into the jagged mountains. Our favorite hike was out to Laguna Capri with a beautiful view of Fitz Roy.

We stopped for lunch at the lake, and then Ryan did the nicest thing. He took the kids back down and told me to keep going. The trail continues to Laguna de los Tres, which took me to the base of "los Tres"-- Poincenot, Fitz Roy, and Saint-Exupery. Heaven. (And DMM, I'll come back here with you anytime.)

Every day was a new experience with new terrain, views, and weather systems. We loved our time in El Chaltén and absolutely will be back. Ginny (who drinks mate now?) wants to move there and be a guide, so maybe we'll be spending a lot of time there.

Then we flew to Ushuaia, the southernmost city on the island of Tierra del Fuego, and self-proclaimed "fin del mundo." The port city has none of the charm of Calafate or El Chaltén, but tourists flock there for access to Tierra del Fuego National Park and Antarctica. (Others just go to jump off a dock into the ocean at the end of the world.)

Victoria recommended hiking to Laguna Esmerelda, so the girls and I left a sick Baker at the hotel with Ryan and hit the trail! It was a mud-fest, and we had a great time. The lake was so green and beautiful, but the best part was seeing Ginny and Lu loving life and adventuring together.

On our final day, we took the "Tren del Fin del Mundo" from Ushuaia into Tierra del Fuego. The train travels the final 7 km of the track that took convicts from the Ushuaia prison into the park to collect stone and timber to build the town.

From there we hiked trails through the park, which were just okay. But then we went river rafting, and the day was redeemed!

We fought massive headwinds and sailed with screaming tailwinds, and I loved every bit of it. The kids had so much fun too. Ginny asked if she could learn to row when we get home, and my heart melted. Of course you can, kiddo. And I'm going to be such an embarrassing stage mom.

From Ushuaia we flew north to Puerto Madryn, which is known for its marine life. This is where the orcas beach themselves in high tide to snatch elephant seal pups. We didn't see that, which might be for the best. But we did see plenty of southern right whales off the coast of Puerto Pirámides. Here is everyone looking for whales. That focus!

And, BIG NEWS, we celebrated Lu's fifth birthday yesterday!!

We partied the way she wanted--with PENGUINS! We chilled with the largest colony of Magellanic penguins in the world. Just 200,000 nesting penguins couples wishing Lu happy birthday! We love you Lulu!!

We'll head up to Bariloche next, then off to Santiago for a day before flying to New Zealand!

We are thinking of you all every day. We miss you and look forward to being together again!

All my love,

Madeline