Machu Picchu for the WIN!

Our dearest friends and family, it wasn't pretty for us last week. We were all very, very sick. We canceled all our plans and just hunkered down, trying to get better before we were scheduled to leave for Ollantaytambo (en route to Machu Picchu) on Thursday. The stars aligned, and we made it! (Special thanks to Pepto Bismol, Zofran, Powerade popsicles, and especially to our on-call GP who has saved us quite a few times over the past six weeks.)

Ollantaytambo is town on the Urubamba River, about half way between Pisac and Machu Picchu. Our first day there we visited Awamaki, a community of women weavers who live high in the mountains outside Ollantaytambo. They welcomed us so graciously, and showed us how they spin yarn from raw wool, how they dye the wool, and finally how they use different looms to weave incredibly intricate and beautiful patterns. The big kids absolutely loved it, and it was really heartwarming to see them interact with these women who were so happy to teach their craft. Here they are weaving a bracelet:

BTW, the orange stuff on Baker's face is from the dye the women use to make orange and red yarn. The dye is made from dried and ground parasitic insects, so of course Baker spread it across his face.

The next morning, we caught the early train to Aguas Calientes, and then took the bus up to the entrance to Machu Picchu.

Okay, let me take you on a quick diversion for a minute. About two years ago, I met with another Seattle-area mom who had taken her four kids around the world for a year. She gave me so much valuable information, but said if I only followed one piece of her advice, it would be to stay at the Belmond Hotel at Machu Picchu. I didn't understand, but I did what she advised and booked one night there. And let me tell you, I offer this same advice to anyone traveling to MP who can fit the Belmond into their budget. It's worth it.

So we get off the bus, and there amid the chaotic crowd lined up outside the entrance to MP, was the Belmond. It is the only hotel at the entrance, and it gets you access to the park when no one else is around. We dropped our stuff, met up with our guide Alain, and headed to MP with a zillion other eager tourists. First impression...I was overwhelmed. It was so packed with people all vying for the perfect picture spot. So we toured around and took the obligatory photos like this one:

I tried to absorb all Alain was telling us, while also keeping track of the kids among the crowds. Then, slowly, the masses started leaving to catch busses back to town (which we did not have to do). The last bus left around 4:30 pm, so by then we were nearly alone. We sat on a terrace and just let the magic of Machu Picchu pull us in. In the quiet, we were finally able to start understanding the history and power of this place.

This morning, we were able to enter the park with Alain before it officially opened at 7 am, and before the busses arrived from town. It looked like heaven. I could easily see why the Incas chose this site to build the city.

We walked through the empty ruins and then climbed up Huchuy Picchu, a small peak just to the north. I love how the Incas built their trails--just straight up. No switchbacks, no easy way. Just up. I am here for it...and I got to carry Lu, who was not here for it.

The view from the summit was breathtaking. I had never seen Machu Picchu from that side before, and being able to see the rock quarry and the condor shape was just awesome. I felt really happy and alive and so, so grateful for all of it.

So, all in all, Machu Picchu was absolutely wonderful. I am so thankful for the quiet moments we were able to have there. I will remember those moments forever. We are now back in Pisac for three days before we start heading towards Bolivia. Fingers crossed our bellies are done rumbling so we can finally have some fun here!

We love you all and miss you so much.

All my love,

Madeline